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Got a technical question or a boating query? Post your quandaries here and pick the brains of the WW team. You can also add your answers to others' questions, or browse through previous answers.

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Slipway or crane on river Nene

I need to take a 65ft 18 tonne narrowboat out of the water for a survey either on a slipway or arcane. She is located in Oundle on the river Nene ... Could you help me locate the nearest place that can handle a big boat like this .... Thank you , Andrew

Asked by: andrew furnival  | Wednesday 22 July, 9.50am | 1 answer


Hello, I have 2 problems I would like help with. I have 57ft cruiser stern with a Barus Shanks 35 engine. when cruising along, If I suddenly pull the throttle lever back into tickover, the engine sometimes stalls. if I pull it back slowly its ok, but when I pull it back quickly it stalls. The other problem I am having is with thw starter motor. When I turn the key Not every time but mostly, the starter just clicks. Sometimes it starts after just a few attempts but most of the time it can take 10 to 20 turns of the key before the starter works. I happened with the previous starte motor so I replaced it with a brand new one but it is still the same. Can you please help. regards,,,, Phil

Asked by: philip wiggin  | Monday 20 July, 6.54pm | 1 answer

Waterways world magazines

I have alot of Waterways Worlds that go back to the 60's 70's 80's and 90's. Could you tell me if there is any value to them please

Asked by: Margaret O'Riley  | Saturday 18 July, 11.28am | 2 answers

Battery size

I have been offered a good deal on a 12v 115AH starter battery. Can this be used to replace a 12v 110AH battery without any charging issues? The narrowboat is a 60ft Aqualine Madison. Thank You

Asked by: Alan Denney  | Thursday 16 July, 2.56pm | 2 answers

pump out

As on our new boat the gunwales are only 3 inches is there any reason why the pump fittings cant go on the side instead

Asked by: george  | Wednesday 15 July, 5.58pm | 3 answers

Engine Change - Mechanical v Hydraulic Gearbox

Following my earlier question about an engine change, what are the pros and cons of mechanical and hydraulic gearboxes? My current box is hydraulic but I see I could save several hundred pounds by selecting, say, a Shire 38 with a PRM120 rather than a Shire 40 with a PRM150 whilst only losing 2 bhp Both engines have the same displacement so presumably the torque can't be very different?

Asked by: Clive Dutson  | Monday 13 July, 5.12pm | 1 answer


I have a 57x10 wide beam currently heated with a webasto diesel central heating system. I have never been very happy with this. Can anyone advise what would be good to change the webasto 'firebox' for?

Asked by: val smith  | Monday 13 July, 12.40pm | 3 answers

what is the best hull blacking product

What is the best hull blacking product for steel bottom wide beam . What is the easiest for applying and quickest drying time. I have read that B&Q black paint is effective and cheap. Is this true of a boat in a marina in brackish water?

Asked by: val smith  | Monday 13 July, 11.23am | 4 answers

Engine Change

Our Lister Canalstar LPWS4A engine is now in a diesel repair shop for investigation and I'm wondering if now is the time to bite the bullet and fit a new engine as it is 20 years old and has done about 6500 hours.
The Lister engine powering our 55' Liverpool narrowboat is 36hp but I've noticed in recent WW articles that boats of this size usually seem to have 42hp or bigger engines.A Beta 38 35hp engine sounds like a sensible equivalent. Does it make any sense to consider a bigger engine? I guess there must be issue relating cooling and propeller size, at least.
with a change of engine is normal to change the gearbox? I don't much about our gearbox as it has been trouble-free for the 8 years we have had the boat - our survey describes it as a Newage 47x16.

Asked by: Clive Dutson  | Sunday 12 July, 5.54pm | 1 answer

How to identifying a leak?

I have a leak in the front of my boat, near where the water tank is. After being away for a few weeks earlier this year, I returned to find my water tank was empty (it was nearly full before I left) and water in one end of my hull (the bulkhead on that side is sealed so water couldn't get into the rest of the hull). So as far as I can work out, its either the water pump, the water tank or the hose. But how do I identify specifically where it is so I can work out what to do next... ? None of it is very easiely accessible. Thanks!

Asked by: kirsty  | Saturday 11 July, 12.34pm | 1 answer

Loss of domestic electric

We have suddenly lost 12v and 240v power. Inverter alarm light flashing and 12v fridge light too. Lights dim. Control panel meter shows charging at about 14v. Batteries topped up Ok, no loose wires on alternator. Any thoughts on what problem is?

Asked by: Paul Taylor  | Thursday 2 July, 10.52am | 1 answer

Hot water too hot

Our engine gives us 'free' hot water but it gets scaldingly hot. Is it possible to regulate the temperature, e.g. With a thermostat? What would be involved in altering the system?

Asked by: Paul Taylor  | Wednesday 1 July, 12.19pm | 1 answer

Charging batteries

I have a 45amp alternator on a BMC 1.5 engine and a domestic battery set up of 3x110amphour batteries. Now Im spending longer on the boat and less time running the engine the batteries are not being fully recharged.Ive been told that maybe I should uprate the alternator to a 70amp model or install an external voltage regulator to make the existing system more efficient. Which would be the best option or isit a combination of both

Asked by: David Hooper  | Monday 29 June, 12.35pm | 2 answers

Battery Charging

Dear Sir/Madam,
I have brought a CTEK MXS 5 battery charger this last year. I liked the compact size and its 8 stage charging. I do not think it can charge a battery bank x3 85 Amps = 255 amps(12v), as its output is up to 110amps and because of its testing would not work for more than one. I could not see in the Ctek range if they do one for 3. I have no one to tern to for help. I have found it hard to find information that is linked to chargers to buy. I have a 28 foot plastic boat.

Asked by: Gary  | Friday 26 June, 1.53pm | 5 answers


I have to install a new squirel stove and have been told i need a fire proof layer behind the fire i already have fire tiles is this ok

Asked by: george  | Tuesday 23 June, 7.24pm | 1 answer

navigomarine boatbuilder

Does navigo marine still exist?ABC no longer represent them and website not clear!Who supplies nbs at budget end of market?similar to navigo Trent,see WW,Oct2013

Asked by: David JL Martin  | Thursday 11 June, 5.07pm | 2 answers

starting a BMC engine

Ihave a bmc 1.5 engine in my narrowboat.It as always been a problem starting so I had 4 new glowplugs fitted and the holes were cleaned out using a drillbit. It is still a problem to start and I usually take 30sec to 1 minute on the key to warm the plugs. If I use Easy Start it starts 1st time but I have told that Easy Start is not ideal. Any ideas.
D Gibbons.
NB Lazy Daze.

Asked by: david gibbons  | Wednesday 10 June, 9.43am | 2 answers

Generator Grounding (Earthing)

Dear Sir,
I have just brought an IG770 Kipor generator for use on the bank. My boat being Viking 28, is of GRP construction. I had to ask the company (Kipor)direct about what is required to earth it (Grounding). Before looking on the internet it is not so simple as to just stick a bit of metal into the ground. For starters using a thicker grounding rod does not reduce the resistance from rod to earth[when earthing a power station but may apply to a degree] . The length of the grounding rod is important and also what substrate you are sticking it into (gravely soil, sand, wet soil or dry, clay etc). It is impracticable to use a four foot rod as it may well bend or be impossible to pull out of the ground. If using more than one, they should be spaced not nearer than the length of each one's depth in the ground. An Ohms test should be done between the earth cable hence the thick cable required from the generator to the rod or rods. The mind boggles if you start to look deeper at the subject.
We are interested in our own generator set, so require the earth rod or rods for what our generators max power can produce, plus (at a guess) 30-40% to be on the safe side. My boat is of GRP construction.
Kipor told me to use as followed. [I can email the information from Kipor along with drawing if required].
Materials needed:
1. a copper wire(cross sectional area 2.5mm2)
2. a threaded copper rod(diameter 10mm, length 600mm)
3. an ohm meter
Operation steps:
1. Find the ground terminal on the panel
2. Twin the terminal with the copper wire
3. Twin the copper rod with the copper wire along the threads
4. Insert the cooper rod into the earth, the cooper shall not be above the earth for more than 150mm, a warning sign beside the cooper will be better
5. Measure the resistance between the terminal on the panel and the cooper rod, the resistance shall be lower than 4 Ohm, or, please use shorter copper wire
Not quite what you may have expected(??) 2.5mm2 but may be ok for max 770 Watts output!
Yours Sincerely
Gary Dean.
WW subscriber.
PS I have seen generators this year at WW boat show along the canal at Crick, without any grounding, quite big lumps too. They must be mad or stupid idiots.

Asked by: Gary  | Tuesday 9 June, 2.29pm | 3 answers

the humber

I am going to be taking a 63ft narrow boat from driffield to trent falls has any one got any advise for this journey on the humber estuary thank you.

Asked by: andy wakler  | Sunday 31 May, 5.41pm | 3 answers

roof collars

Is there a collar for fitting a fire in the center of a boat

Asked by: george  | Wednesday 27 May, 9.56am | 1 answer

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